surfing

This week I spent most of my time in the quaint little surfing village of playa Gigante. One of the biggest swell's of the year came Wednesday. I robbed the entire town of Bahia Salinas of their residents and we all headed up together. The lack of wind made it easy to convince everyone to tear themselves from the bay to surf. We came out on Monday when the waves were still manageable. Sijtze spent countless hours in the water practicing his style, while the rest of us took pictures, drank beer & watched the swell grow. By Wednesday the waves were so huge and choppy only a few brave souls entered the water. It was pretty cool to hear the power of the water crashing on the beach. We decided to leave Gigante Wednesday afternoon because the wind was going to start up again Thursday. I dropped my crew off at the Costa Rica border then went back to my home in San Juan del Sur.

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  Referred to spot:  Amayo Kite Beach

When you decide to make the move away from your friends and family to a far away land, do you really know what you are getting into? We all have fairytale ideas of what it’s going to be like and for the most part it is but there is this underlying loneliness we all struggle with. Whether it’s for a partner, your children or family; when you live more then a simple phone call away it’s hard. At first when you arrive to the town in your country of choice you go out partying a lot. It’s a great way to meet people and numb the shock of what you have just done. During this courting period with your new home many different things can happen. If you are a younger girl more then likely will find yourself lured in by the local hot surfer boy type. For many this is a good way to learn the language, area and culture. For some it’s a way to get used, robbed or linked with the wrong crowd. This is a very risky way to enter your new world but in some cases it works out.

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