Kitesurf Atlas, Kiteboarding Holidays, Kite Surf Lessons

Michigan 2009: Mid-Summer Synopsis and the Sail North

Upon my return to the shores of Lake Michigan in mid-May I was greeted by a solid run of good “small kite” conditions...but June 2009 turned out to be somewhat disappointing and uncharacteristically calm – although it was still possible to ride 14 out of 30 days. It seems that the June/July weather patterns around the entire country were somewhat out of whack: cold and wet in the Midwest and Northeast...but lots of wind in Western Florida!!!

So far July has yielded 15 out of 25 days, so you can't complain about that. However these have not been the typically reliable forecasted winds we expect, but rather the kind of winds you need to “be there” for when it's happening – which makes it awfully nice to live 3 blocks from the water. Still with slightly less kiting than normal it has been a great season for sailing boats - regular 7 to 12 kts winds makes for perfect big-boat conditions.

So far this summer I've only been able to do 4 downwinder wave sessions, but they were fully savored each time. Waves have been scarce this season thus far, so when they push in you had better be ready to soak them up. Most of my riding has been in Muskegon, but a few trips to South Haven and Pier Cove have been worthwhile. We made a few trips to legendary Little Point Sable, sometimes with mediocre results, but the last trip yielded a solid 9m/12m day and nice rolling swell.

On July 16 I departed on board Crusader, a Cal 39, for my annual “follow Mike on the Race to Mackinaw” trip, heading out of Muskegon at noon with a solid 15 kt West wind and sloppy sea. On my first long solo leg I sailed about 120 miles non-stop North to Frankfort and averaged 7+ kts, arriving Frankfort at 0400 on Friday. It had been perfect sailing conditions on the big lake these 2 days before the start of the official Chicago-Mac. As I passed Ludington the classic ferry USS Badger crossed my bow on it's way to Manitowoc, like a picture from another time. Unfortunately for the racers coming out of Chicago, on Saturday the wind shut down on their first day across the start and it never got much better - the race turned out to be a grueling and aggravating 72+ hour event for many boats, (more typically a 48-54 hr pace), many boats retiring as a result.

After my initial long haul sail to Frankfort I layed at anchor there for a few days, relaxing and enjoying some epic kiting conditions in this beautiful spot. Super smooth butter on the inside of the pier heads, and beautiful aqua blue waves on the outside enjoyed with a 9.5m Kahoona. The quaint little town of Franfort has plenty of shops and restaurants, and the anchorage inside on Betsie Lake is completely calm and protected. The Mayflys were hatching and the boat's decks were covered with them in the early dawn hours - and the fish were pretty happy no doubt.

South Manitou Island was to be my next stopover where I hoped to rendezvous with my old friends Cam & Gretchen Lewis, who were flying cross country from Seattle to Maine in his Cessna 182 amphibious plane. I was also hoping to intercept some friends sailing in the Mac fleet as they followed the rhumb line thru the Manitou Passage between the Sleeping Bear Dunes and Manitou archipelago, but most of the boats I was looking for were still over 100 miles South and only a few Cruiser section boats (who started 1 day early) were coming thru at the time. As I sailed North I heard the drone of a low flying plane approaching from the horizon – it was Cam buzzing me with a dip of his wings before he landed at our meeting spot 4 miles away in one of the most beautiful places you will ever hope to visit – South Manitou Harbor.

In typical rule defying fashion we soon discovered that it was illegal to land a float plane within 1 mile of a National Park...thankfully the rangers were very mellow about it and allowed us to tie the plane up near their dock overnight. We had hors d'ouevres and a few rum drinks on the boat and then explored a bit of the island before returning to for a nice dinner and more beverage. Cam and Gretchen commandeered the forward V-berth for the evening and we all fell into a great sleep in this idyllic protected harbor where you can anchor the boat right up to the beach in deep water, looking down thru crystal clear water at the rocks below.

The night had been cool and perfect sleeping weather and we all awoke refreshed to a picture perfect morning, enjoying an awesome breakfast and fresh coffee, and a walk ashore before departure time. I helped them get the plane off the shore and watched them taxi out for takeoff – thanks for coming and happy landings! What a great stroke of luck to time my route with theirs as they were flying the plane cross country.

On Monday I made my new heading for Northport, at the North end of Grand Traverse Bay, where I would anchor over for the night before continuing South down Grand Traverse Bay. I fell in line with some Farr 40's and other fast boats flying chutes on a close reach inside the Manitou Passage, keeping pace with them for a while before my desired course diverged from theirs, bearing away to the Northeast. Again the sailing was perfect and I was able to enjoy a warm solar shower in the cockpit as the autopilot kept me on course.

Sailing Northeast in 8-10 kts wind I passed Cathead Bay and rounded the Grand Traverse lighthouse, easing the sails onto a reaching/gybing course for the last 10 miles to Northport. I set the anchor and made a good meal for myself and was looking forward to the next leg to Suttons Bay – one of my favorite Northern Michigan villages, and a beautiful little harbor set at the bottom of this well protected bay. Upon arrival I jumped in the dinghy for a jaunt into town and then took my time enjoying a well cooked Italian meal, strong coffee and cherry cobbler before returning to the boat just in the nick of time before thunderstorms began pounding thru and washing Crusaders decks down.

I hunkered down for the night and hoped for a good weather window the next day. In the morning the radar showed a possible clearing around 1100 so I readied the boat for the final leg to Traverse City where I would meet Mike and Meagan to hand the boat over to them for the next week. With a fresh 18-20 kt East breeze I went sailing quickly down the bay, with splendid views of orchards, vineyards, and beautiful homes along the shore and hillsides, eventually pulling into the Clinch Marina around 1800 hrs where I tied the boat up – sadly I must add, as I came to grips with the fact that my little sailing trip was at an end – I had covered about 350 miles in the last 6 days, and life on the boat had been good.

I am reminded of the thoughts shared by the French legend of solo sailing, Bernard Moitessier, who in his book "The Long Way" writes that he began to "regard (the first solo around the world race - "Golden Globe") he had entered as a voyage that could not end for him"..."God created the sea. He painted it blue to make it nice for us. And here I am, at peace, the bow pointed toward the East"...as he decides to abandoned the race and continue again 3/4 of the way around the world to Tahiti!...to escape the trappings of "civilization".

Before the drive home we had a few rum drinks on the boat, and a “cheeseburger in paradise” washed down with a few beers at the local brewery. I have sailed in a lot of places – Bahamas, Caribbean, Mediterranean, Asia, Northeast USA, West Coast USA – but the waters of Northern Michigan rival all of those places for scenery and charm, and it's quality ports of call. This trip definitely ranked as one of the top ten sailing experiences I can remember in 30+ years of my time on the water. If you get the chance to see these places by boat, don't pass it up.

Postscript: Happy to say that I have been welcomed home by 5 straight day of awesome kiting!!! Are things geting back to normal?