Kitesurf Atlas, Kiteboarding Holidays, Kite Surf Lessons

Ireland Part 3 - and epilogue

Thursday: Session 14
On the day of my 14th session the waves were smaller (2-3m) and pretty clean so I was actually a bit relieved to have a break from the super intense conditions we had the other day. The wind was "light" (WNW at 25+ kts) so still good with the 7.5 Kahoona. This was one of the 5 or 6 sessions that I chose to ride strapless with the Aviso 5'-8" fish. Much of the riding up until this point was in extremely windy and somewhat rough seas, and I felt more comfortable riding the strapped board in those conditions. The Aviso (which is so lightweight) would have literally gotten blown away from under my feet many of those other session. But this day turned out to be perfect for riding strapless and although it was a bit fluky I really enjoyed the change. There is something liberating about riding strapless and the "feeling" of the surfboard is so much more pure for some reason.

As usual the scenery surrounding me was glorious, the angle of the mid-November sun, now very low in the sky during early afternoon, creating that special warm glowing light and the richness of all colors enhanced by it's rays bending thru the atmosphere, kissing the edges of the planet. I could get very accustomed to this scene - no problem. I worked my way upwind toward the mouth of the river Inagh with some effort in the gusty/shifty wind, positioning myself for a safe and open landing spot since the tide had risen and closed off half the beach. Finally I decided to end this solo ride, satisfied that I had gotten this session on the Lost Fish and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Feeling happy and mellow I packed down and walked my gear downwind toward the parking spot and where I had stashed my Spleene Zone up on the rocks above the high tide line in case I stayed out too long, but when I returned to fetch it I discovered that someone had stolen it! . The board was GONE!!! I searched madly for it, asking passersby if they had seen it, if they noticed someone carrying it, etc. No luck!

Initially I had a bit of a fit and let out a roar that was drowned out by the howling wind and booming surf, but I then quickly realized that this was not a good reason to let my trip be ruined. It turned out that the thieves peeled my nametag off and tried to sell the board on eBay. Miraculously I eventually got the board back thru some sleuthing and cunning efforts from the wonderful Irish kiting community and a cute female detective from the Ennistymon Garda.

It's a story unto itself, but suffice it to say that it actually added something special to the trip - I was overwhelmed with the concerns, offers of assistance and loaner boards from many people who had never even met me. It was touching to feel a part of the Irish camaraderie that was precipitated by the theft. The experience made me want to embrace the people and the kiting scene here even more than before. It was turning out not only to be outrageously good riding conditions, but I was also witness to one of the most beautiful examples of good human nature at work.

After a few more 5m and 7.5m days in Lahinch I was off to Dublin again for a few sessions at Dollymount with Jenny. She has finally gotten up and riding in some very challenging conditions, so I'm proud of her progress and determination. While in Dublin this time we also made a visit to Jenny's barge on the Royal Canal. I was really impressed by the boat and the lock system on the canal. Next time around I would love to do some short trips up and down the canal system, stopping at small villages along the way and exploring the Irish countryside from yet another interesting perspective.

One of the best parts of the entire trip was the weekend of the Belmullet Wave Rider gathering at the UISCE facility. I went up from Dublin a day early to explore Sligo on my way. While it was kiteable I was eager to get to Belmullet, so I took a quick look around what appeared to be another fantastic set of kiting spots around Sligo. I arrived in Belmullet that evening and joined a group of kiters at the An Cheibh (Anchor) for a salmon dinner and a Guinness.

Our group of attendees was staying together at the UISCE facility and a great weekend was in store for all. We had nice winds both days and made some presentations to the group on wave riding, and some demonstrations on the water. What an incredible spot indeed. I certainly will return to this place again in the future. And the craic was flowing with full force all day and all night for certain. It was great fun to be around a lot of the people I had met already and also a whole new group of faces.

From Belmullet I returned to Tullaloughaun and rode Lahinch a few more days with 5m and 7.5m kites. Time was running short and I felt a compulsive need to see some of the spots to the South before making one more trip to Dublin to see Jenny perform on stage. Up until this time the weather had been exciting to say the least, but nobody was prepared for the biblical rain event about to hammer Ireland. I set off for Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula, heading across from Clare to Kerry aboard the ferry Shannon Breeze. It was already blowing 30-40 kts and getting wilder by the moment.

By the time I arrived in Castlegregory it was a veritable hurricane. I could barely make my way from the car to the door of the Castle House, with a drenching rain driving horizontally through the air. After checking in with my hostess I was brought a nice coffee and pastries to cozy up with by the fire as I watched France and Ireland battle on the football pitch in what turned out to be a very controversial and scandalous match. That night I enjoyed a long deep sleep while the storm raged outside. In the morning my hostess made me a crazy breakfast of eggs, smoked salmon, sausages, fresh breads and pastries, fruit, oatmeal, a gorgeous coffee...I could have spent half the day eating...but I was eager to venture out into the maelstrom.

I had been in touch with a few local riders but it was looking doubtful.. The forecasts were for 11m (36 ft) swell and 60+ kt winds. I wanted so much to ride this spot, but it was simply impossible and insane to consider it. I resigned myself to a sight-seeing tour and donned my Gore-Tex bibs & parka and my Dubarry boots...walking and sloshing around in the elements and in this environment was incredible and awe inspiring. I hiked to the crest of some cliffs overlooking Brandon Bay, a gorgeous view of the open sea and the waves. Looking back across this beautiful landscape, waterfalls were springing out of the Dingle hills and rushing down roads carrying small boulders across my path, creating small "rapids" which made driving quite challenging. Many time over the next few days I would be forced to turn back by the flooded roadways - the historic deluge was quickly creating massive chaos in Cork, Dublin, Galway, and many other places.

I had an exciting drive over Connor Pass and explored the entire Dingle Peninsula, stopping briefly at Inch Strand, tempted again to give it a go, but the swell was massive and the wind was still easily over 45 kts. To venture out on my own in an unfamiliar spot would have been irresponsible and risky. I decided to move on to Cork to meet up with Sarah and Phil. I really wanted to ride badly, feeling a little frustrated by the weather while in Kerry, but I will certainly return to Castlegregory and Brandon Bay next time as it looks sensational. I spent a day riding at Garretstown Strand - probably my lightest wind day of the entire trip, with the 9.5 Kahoona in 2-3m waves. Afterward a nice lunch in Kinsale - a charming little port town near Cork - before a long and strenuous drive to Dublin.

I finally made it to Dublin that evening, just in the nick of time for Jenny's performance in Clontarf, which was grand and unforgetable. One of the most impressive things about Ireland is the strong connection the people have with music. I was able to enjoy some "trad" music at local bars and trad fests, and I am amazed by the level of talent here. It was great to see Jenny on stage - and always amazing to see someone functioning so naturally in their "element". She's a natural born performer for sure.

After a brief 2 day stay in Dublin I set out late at night, bound for Clare again, battling thru the flooded roads, getting lost in the darkness, trying to find my way down narrow and unfamiliar country lanes in the middle of the blackest night. Finally after several extra hours of driving and detours and near strandings I was relieved to be back at Tullaloughaun. A few more 7.5m and 5m days greeted me in Lahinch. One day I sat at the beach contemplating the conditions...I finally decided it's too much, gusting to 60 kts and simply not worth the risks - and instead of riding I decided to visit Galway. The drive over the winding roads through the Burren was beautiful and fun, and again the rain and flooding added some serious challenges. I found Galway to be a beautiful town with a medieval feeling, with a large "pedestrian only" section of the city. I met up with a friend there for a tour of the city, a meal, and of course a fab pint of Guinness. Galway is just one of the most pleasant places you could ever visit...even in this weather. The Spanish Arch and the water nearly cresting the bridges on the Coiribe was impressive to see.

Sadly, later that evening the report came in of a young rider near Donegal who tried to ride with a 9m kite and got blown into the rocks and did not survive. This was very upsetting to everyone in Ireland - and it drove home even harder what a small and tight knit community Ireland is. To make matters worse only a few days earlier a windsurfer had perished during the big storms in County Kerry, so people were already distraught over the still fresh and painful loss of another waterman.

Only a week or so remaining now before my dreaded departure date. I had a few more 7.5m and 5m days in Lahinch. Altogether it had been an incredible run of kiting for the past 6 weeks...one good day after another. In the end I kited 28 sessions in a 42 day trip. Some of those off days were too windy to kite, and a few days I was in transit from one side of the country to the other. I certainly don't feel like I missed anything though, and I certainly had my fair share of epic riding. 80% of the time I was on my 7.5m Kahoona - how much better can things get? A few days that I chose not to ride the 5m would have been way too much...CRAZY! And there is still so much more to explore here...it would take years, maybe decades, to do it all.

I set off on this trip with one major goal in mind - big wave riding - and the West Coast of Ireland delivered huge for me. But before I even left the USA I was determined that I would enjoy this trip just as much even without one day of kiting - (I had always had a fascination for Ireland) - and while it turned that I had great wind and waves the entire time, I still feel that the trip would have been equally satisfying if it had been otherwise. My understanding of riding large waves was raised to an entirely new level - the dynamic of riding in 4m+ waves and 30+ kt winds is indeed different, and riding different combinations of cross-off/cross-on/on-shore conditions requires adaptation and introduces some unique challenges especially when the waves are so big. Also, I learned so much about this country, the people and customs, the history and folklore - and I so enjoyed the magnificent countryside and the incomparable spirit of the Irish people. Hopefully I learned a little about myself as well.

Every day of this trip I awoke totally energized by my environment and the friends I had made, burning with desire to play hard, excited to see and do as much as I could, ready to enjoy every day here that seemed like a miracle to me. When it finally came time to board the plane for my return to the USA I was literally in tears as we left the runway, the green hills and rugged coastline shrouded in wind and rain below. An Irish song I heard Phillip Donnelly (a former John Prine band member) sing in Dublin - "From Clare to Here"* played in my head over and over, and even before the Emerald Isle disappeared from view below the clouds I was already homesick for this land and her people, and looking forward to my next visit.

* listen to Nanci Griffith's beautiful version of Ralph McTell's song http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVFJ0Z-OTqo