Kitesurf Atlas, Kiteboarding Holidays, Kite Surf Lessons

Ireland 2009! Part II

Tuesday, 3 November, WILD WILD SESSION # 13
A cold, stormy sky and churning seas welcomed us into Lahinch this morning. It was just me and Wojciek, no other takers...Alan and Robbie had to bail. The tide was out - way out - further than either of us had seen it, and that was the “green light” to get going without further ado. We parked to launch near the graveyard and were pelted by driving rain and hail as we donned thick neoprene by the roadside and pumped our kites up on the long grass. An unbelievable session was in store for us today in 7m waves and WNW 30-40 kt cross-on wind, with my 7.5 Kahoona kite very lit. I headed out first, with the 7.5m K and stayed upwind waiting for W, playing in some of the "small" head high sets, tuning myself up, as they rolled toward the river mouth. Wojciek launched a 9m kite, and I had a feeling he would end up being overpowered if the forecast was to become true.

Soon after W changed down to a 7m kite, and then we gradually worked our way downwind and closer to “ground zero” - Cornish Reef - into bigger and bigger waves until we were in the heart of the "beast", and fortunately with cleaner wind now that we were well away from the shelter of the Liscanor headland. At first the waves were big, but within my comfort zone, similar in size to the previous Sunday's big wave session 10 days before which had been a personal best day for me. But shortly after we were both completely committed to riding in this downwind corner of the bay the swell started pumping gigantic waves into our midst.

I honestly had never seen waves this size, much less ridden them with kites or sails or boards. They were massive, easily 7m and now chugging relentlessly into the SE corner of Lahinch Bay. While these waves were perfectly formed and very predictable they were still very dangerous, and survival instincts shifted into a higher gear than ever before. I learned comparatively easily the other day what a mistake will cost and I was determined not to fuck up here...not today, please.

The waves kept getting bigger and bigger and bigger, as it was approaching high tide. As the tide swept in there was no beach remaining on the Lahinch side of the bay, and the waves pounded high up onto the seawall protecting the town.

W and I rode these monster waves almost to shore dozens of times - many of those times you had no choice - they were express trains to the beach, and when riding back out through them it felt much the same as when riding up the steep tracks to the crest of a roller coaster ride....slowly, slowly grinding my way to the top of the track, you could feel your heart beating as you rode up the steep faces, ready to drop off the other side of the peak, this crazy ride being made of liquid, in full, constant, relentless motion, breaking into 4m+ deep explosions of whitewater.

On several occasions I wondered out loud if I should even be there in this spot, questioning my sanity, using every ounce of my skill to judge and negotiate these triple overhead + sets - focusing 100% every moment like never before. I intentionally allowed several really big waves to pass under me, afraid to turn and surf them, and then nervously hoping that I would clear their peaks before they broke on top of me without mercy, and then sailing off the backsides to meet the next oncoming swell. The peaks were probably 40-50m apart which was amazing in itself, probably 14-15 second periods.

Every big wave I committed to sent a super-charged burst of adrenaline into me. A few times I felt like I was free falling down these huge faces, trying to keep my board steady, trying to stay in control, keep a fin in the water, steady with the kite. The speed was frightening and exhilarating and I prayed out loud urging myself to keep it together...DON'T FALL, DON'T LOSE THE BOARD...not here, not now...please.

On one particularly big wave I found myself just upwind of W, only a few meters separating us and a dangerous situation for both, as we raced madly to the left in front of the waves critical section. Neither of us could turn downwind into the churning whitewater abyss, nor upwind in a futile attempt to surmount what would have been a nearly vertical face steaming along with breathtaking speed and power. We both held our track, each keenly aware of the others near presence, our kites flying perilously close together...and we made it, gracefully bottom turning back seaward in poetic unison when the wave released us, thinking that any fine seabird would have been proud to watch that maneuver!

I honestly do not think I want to kite waves any bigger than that. This was about as intense as I need to get with anything. Later when I described the experience to Alan K, he told me that they windsurfed 13m waves here once...THAT is CRAZY I exclaimed!!! (and he quickly agreed).

Finally after 3+ hours of riding my strength was fading and my concentration was becoming overloaded by the constant intensity of the situation. I decided to start out on my escape path, out and away from the big sections and the foreboding reef to leeward...OK I treated myself to a few more wild rides before I made the final dash for safe water...but I knew my time was soon up and I had better get myself out of there ...now...quickly.

After working back upwind to the other side of the bay my kite came down wildly as I flagged it onto the now nearly non-existent tide filled beach. The wind was really howling now, steady 35 kts and gusts to 45+ kts, and I'm thankful we stopped. Exhausted, I could barely walk my gear against the wind to the setup area. It had been an exciting heavy weather day, filled with fast moving squalls, dark clouds racing across the sky with long grey beards that swept the sea, pelting us with rain and hail showers to sting our faces, rainbows springing from distant green fields, the sun reflecting sharply in bright beams on the distant horizon, wave tops blown horizontally with the force of fire hoses, and the camaraderie of a sole riding partner to bolster the determination and courage. A day I shall never forget.

Although it's always nice to have a riding partner, on a day like this you are pretty much on your own - there is not much you could do to help if trouble befell your comrade in the big waves, and it would be agonizing to watch the carnage. Wojciek and I shared some peanuts and hot tea in a ritual-like ceremony of our shared experience and the enormous success of the day...both smiling uncontrollably from ear to ear...wide eyed with wonder at what just took place...like a pair of young lads having just seen Santa popping up the chimney! It was what they might call “savage craic“!

Wednesday - day off #2
The next day I drove to the beach in an apprehensive mood. Nobody called to ride yet, and I'm half relieved. The wind and sea are still raging this morning. Oddly I was not burning with desire to ride again today, The delayed effects of yesterdays wild session did not hit me full force until around midnight last night. In a strange sense I felt mentally and physically shaken by the previous day's experience. Perhaps I had just built up the sensations of the previous day in my own mind, but when Alan told me this morning that the swell was confirmed to be 8m I felt that I had a good grip on the reality of it.

I recalled a lecture in Hood River many years ago given by author and celebrated alpine climber Jim Wickwire, who wrote "Addicted to Danger", one of my favorite reads. I spoke to him privately about his book after his talk, asking for a deeper explanation and understanding of the title and deeper perspective on the subject. We agreed that the forces that draw us to these experiences is not really about being addicted to danger, but rather being obsessed with being in control...at the edge of control, pushed to the very limit...but still in control. It's a difficult concept to explain, a bit like the "unbearable lightness of being" Kundera wrote about. The average person would probably think we are insane to put ourselves in these situations, perhaps they think it is a death wish of sorts, but that could not be further from the truth. Wickwire felt that "addicted to danger" would be an easy thing for the average person to relate to, although it would not be completely adequate to truly understand the meaning - and only by walking the razor's edge deliberately, skillfully, could one bring proper meaning to it.

I was content for a while attending to logistical issues that needed handling in order to extend my trip another 3-4 weeks. I just wanted to look at the waves today. I visited a number of new vantage points and took numerous photos up and down the coastline. It was hard to capture the essence of just how big the waves were. Actually I believe the swell was bigger the previous day while we were out on the water, peaking from around 1pm-3pm. Today they were not as clean or organized, too much wind on it probably - it was currently gusting to 58 kts. Plus they say this bay does not normally hold a swell over 8m.

Driving around looking at the sea and landscape, taking short hikes here and there to get the "shot", I was enjoying the day enough...the weather here has been dramatic and fascinating - one minute the sun shining through the clouds setting the colors of the countryside on fire, then a heavy cloud, laden with rain, sweeping through with little notice, followed by rainbows over green pastures bespeckled with beautiful stone walls and ancient structures, sheep, cows, horses grazing and enduring these constantly changing elements. The perpetual plumes of water shooting upward into the sky from the edges of the Cliffs of Moher were stunning - like the spray from massive fire hoses - geysers rising 150m vertically from the sea to the tops of the cliffs, and then again another 50m into the air! Upside down waterfalls!

you may enjoy this short video at the "secret spot" http://www.vimeo.com/8691021

Part 3 now on-line!